Photos of Upper Mustang

Tucked away in the remote northern reaches of Nepal lies Upper Mustang, a region that feels like a journey back in time. Through my portfolio of photographs of this fascinating land, I hope to introduce you to one of the last truly unspoiled corners of the Himalayas. Known historically as the Kingdom of Lo, Upper Mustang remains one of Nepal’s most culturally and geographically intriguing destinations, a place where ancient traditions thrive against a backdrop of dramatic landscapes.

What makes Mustang so remarkable is its geography and history. Protruding into the Tibet Autonomous Region of China like a finger, this region shares far more cultural and historical ties with Tibet than with the rest of Nepal. For centuries, it was an isolated kingdom, closed to outsiders until as recently as 1992. This late opening has preserved a way of life that has disappeared elsewhere in the Himalayas, making it a living museum of Tibetan culture and spirituality.

A Journey Into an Untouched Land

Reaching Upper Mustang is itself an adventure. The most common route is the short but exhilarating flight from Pokhara to Jomsom, where small planes weave through valleys which open up to stunning views of snowcapped peaks such as Nilgiri. For the more intrepid traveller, there is also the option of travelling by road, which is an experience in itself, that takes several hours but rewards travellers with a close-up view of the ever-changing landscapes, from lush lowlands to arid, high-altitude mountain plateaus.

What makes this region of Nepal even more extraordinary is its climate. The towering Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges form a natural barrier, creating a rain shadow that keeps Upper Mustang dry for most of the year. Unlike the monsoon-soaked hills of central Nepal, Mustang’s terrain resembles the high deserts of Tibet with its windswept valleys, ochre cliffs, and dramatic rock formations shaped by centuries of erosion. It is an otherworldly landscape, stark yet breathtakingly beautiful.

The Cultural Heart of the Forbidden Kingdom

Upper Mustang is often referred to as the “Forbidden Kingdom”, a name that recalls its long history of restricted access and its air of mystery. Even today, entry requires a special permit, which helps regulate tourism and preserve the fragile cultural heritage of the area. This careful balance has allowed the traditions of the region to flourish relatively undisturbed.

The culture here is rooted in Tibetan Buddhism, but visitors will also encounter traces of the Bon religion, an even older spiritual practice that predates Buddhism in Tibet. The coexistence of these two belief systems is reflected in the monasteries, rituals, and festivals of the region. Ancient sky caves carved into sheer cliffs hold secrets of both religious traditions, some adorned with centuries-old murals that tell stories of deities, spirits, and cosmic order.

The towns and villages of Mustang are equally captivating. The walled former capital city of Lo Manthang, once the seat of the Mustang royal family, is still surrounded by imposing mud-brick walls. Its narrow alleys, whitewashed houses, and monasteries transport visitors into a world where time seems to stand still. Locals dressed in traditional attire go about their daily lives, herding yaks, spinning prayer wheels, and welcoming travellers with warm hospitality.

Festivals and Traditions

For those fortunate enough to time their visit with local festivals, Mustang offers an unforgettable cultural experience. The Tiji Festival, held annually in Lo Manthang, is a three-day celebration rooted in Buddhist mythology. Monks perform elaborate masked dances to re-enact the triumph of good over evil, while villagers gather in vibrant traditional clothing. Such events not only provide a colourful spectacle but also demonstrate the resilience of cultural traditions in a rapidly changing world.

The Rewards of Exploration

While reaching Mustang requires effort, the rewards are immense. Travellers are treated not only to sweeping vistas of the Himalayas but also to encounters with a way of life that has endured for centuries. The silence of the desert-like plateaus, broken only by the flutter of prayer flags, is as humbling as the sight of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri peaks rising above the horizon.

For photographers, writers, and adventurers, Upper Mustang is a treasure trove of inspiration. Every corner reveals contrasts: rugged landscapes softened by fields of barley, stark cliffs pierced by hidden caves, and ancient monasteries standing firm against relentless winds. My portfolio of photos of this remarkable place attempts to capture these contrasts and convey the spirit of a land that remains both remote and deeply human.

A Place Beyond the Ordinary

In many ways, Upper Mustang is more than just a travel destination; it is a living testament to the endurance of culture, faith, and tradition. Here, the modern world has only lightly touched the edges, leaving the heart of the region largely intact. To walk through its villages, to witness its festivals, and to gaze upon its vast landscapes is to glimpse a world that feels both ancient and eternal.

Visiting Upper Mustang is not simply a journey; it is also a journey through time. It is an experience that lingers long after the traveller has left, a reminder of the beauty and resilience of cultures that flourish in harmony with some of the harshest environments on earth.

Through my photographs, I hope to share this remarkable story. The story of Upper Mustang, the Kingdom of Lo, is a wild and wondrous corner of Nepal where history, spirituality, and nature come together in a way that few places on earth can match.